IT 50: Best for a 33" or 34" waist.
Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane tailored trousers from S/S 2002 'Boys Don't Cry/RED'. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy. RRP: £1295 (part of a two-piece suit - find the jacket )
From the very beginning of his paradigm-shifting tenure as designer of Dior Homme, Hedi Slimane ensured that high-quality tailoring was at the forefront of the range by partnering with Italian suit manufacturer Caruso. While his vision was by no means traditionalist, Slimane's uncompromising commitment to time-proven craftsmanship and meticulous hand-finishing gave a cachet to his designs that could convince even the most discerning customer. This approach formed the basis of the young Dior Homme brand, where old-world luxury met the aesthetic of youth subcultures. It is fair to say that Slimane's work has been hugely influential, contributing to the formation of contemporary menswear like few other designers.
Like the accompanying , these trousers were designed for Slimane's first collection for Dior, A/W 2001-2002 'Solitaire' (see first runway photo), and reissued for the summer collection that followed. The cut is tight-fitting and elongated, with a medium rise and a narrow straight leg. The front has a streamlined construction devoid of pleats, with a sharp narrow waistband and pockets with a flawless slit construction that remains invisible when the trousers are worn. The back has a single pocket with a concealed button closure, while sharp creases give shape to the legs.
The finishing of the trousers demonstrates that there is nothing simplistic about their minimalist aesthetic: The front pockets are reinforced with barely perceptible bar tack stitches, while the back pockets are finished with ornate semi-circular stitches. The front closes with a concealed zipper, a hook and eye closure and an anchor button; this ensures that tension is distributed evenly without distressing the precious fabric. On the interior, we can see that the waistband is canvassed and lined with black cotton twill to prevent stretching, and the hems feature strong grosgrain tape reinforcing to protect them from wear. The legs are partially lined up to the knee with smooth sateen for added ease of movement, while the crotch area features an additional lining panel.
A timeless classic design with beautifully thought-out details, these trousers are versatile and easy to integrate in a variety of formal and casual outfits. It is widely agreed that the quality of Dior Homme suiting gradually decreased as Slimane departed, and acts as a testament to the high standard that he was able to achieve early on without compromising on his groundbreaking aesthetic.
